Jan/Feb 2005

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2005 Volume 3, Issue 1/2

banner ITALIAN HERITAGE

MONTHLY

VIVE BENE SPESSO L’AMORE Di RISATA MOLTO

My gift to you with Italian (Sicilian) pride

By Joe Nicosia

In this Issue:

The Sicilian Language

Bobby Darin, Pop Singer

La Cucina di Mamma

Sicilian Cheeses

Did you know?

Sicilian Culture

Giuseppe’s Conversational Italian

Mamma Says

Sicilian Culture
The People, The History, The Culture, The Food

The Sicilian Language
Dante recognized its beauty, and the language of Sicily (often but incorrectly referred to as a "dialect" of standard Italian) is a unique blend of Greek, Latin, Aragonese, Arabic, Longobardic and Norman-French elements. This Italic tongue may be considered a distinct Romance Language, but while its prose is beautiful, Sicilian is rarely written. Sicilian is quite similar to Calabrian, and shares certain elements with Maltese. Despite attempts by the national government to suppress it after 1860, Sicilian remained the native language of most Sicilians until the twentieth century. A brand of Tuscan had been the official written language since around 1700, before which time most documents were recorded in "Church" Latin. In Norman times, official documents were issued in Greek, Latin, Arabic and, very rarely, in Norman French.

Like many languages of countries amalgamated with their neighbors over time (Welsh, Gaelic and Provençal come to mind), Sicilian gradually fell into disuse among the aristocrats and literate classes, becoming the vernacular tongue of the "popolino," as the masses were called by the nobility. By the seventeenth century, just as the greatest aristocrats of Scotland learned English at home, Sicily's aristocratic classes learned Tuscan, though some nobles necessarily spoke Sicilian in communication with the employees who managed their country estates. Italy's royals spoke Tuscan Italian and formal French, but it is true that the Savoys spoke Piedmontese within their family at their court at Turin, while the Bourbons of Naples spoke Neapolitan as their mother tongue.

Italian may be said to have supplanted Sicilian as the spoken language of most of today's Sicilians, most of whom are educated with little practical knowledge of Sicilian, considered little more than the "vulgar" tongue of the working classes. Subjective sociological observations aside, Sicilian itself has regional forms; the dialect of Agrigento is different from that of Messina. The educational problem confronting some of Sicily's young people, especially in the country or in the older sections of Palermo and Catania, is that many of them simply do not speak, read or write standard Italian proficiently. If, in our age of instant communication and international commerce, the Italian Ministry of Public Education has been lax in addressing the need for English instruction, one can imagine the challenges confronting Sicilian youngsters who can't even speak Italian.

Wider literacy, television and the internet have further diminished the use of Sicilian in favor of standard Italian. Except for Sicilian-Italian dictionaries and a few compilations of Sicilian poetry, Sicilian cannot be said to be a written language. The Bible, usually considered the world's most widely published book, has never been published in Sicilian, which has no standard orthography. However, Sicilian is important in certain linguistic and historical fields, such as onomatology, the study of proper name origins (and an important aspect of genealogy).

Sicilian has no true future tense, and relies heavily on the "past remote" tense for expressing all past actions. The long "u" is often used in words similar to Italian ones which use the long "o." Certain nouns and adjectives differ considerably from those used in Italian: parrinu instead of prete (priest), beddu for bello (beautiful), iddu for egli (he) and idda for ella (she), babbaluci instead of lumache (snails), picciottu instead of giovanotto (young man), cacoccila for carciofo (artichoke), chiddu for esso (it), chisstu for questo (this), and so forth. The Sicilian word tascio, which means "tacky," falsely sophisticated or lacking in good taste, is understandably offensive in fashion-conscious Italy, though to refer to somebody as vastasi, "uncouth," is far worse. Certain Sicilian phrases seem appropriate sometimes. Ammunì sounds much more persuasive than the Italian Andiamo ("Let's go."). Its verb forms make Sicilian as distinct from Italian as it is from Spanish. Sicilian cadency and pronunciation are a bit slower and more gutteral than Lombard and Piedmontese, which are high-pitched and almost musical.

In the 1980s, the Federal Bureau of Investigation's New York office had to enlist the help of agents fluent in Sicilian to translate the recorded discussions of Sicilian Mafiosi working in the United States. The American-born translators were the children of working-class immigrants. It was lucky for the authorities that they existed; the children of university-educated professionals might never have learned to speak Sicilian at home and probably would not have understood enough of the language to translate long conversations.

Recent years have seen a renewed interest in Italy's regional languages as part of the cultural heritage of all Italians. This movement could never have developed in the nineteenth century following the national unification, nor could it have taken place during the Fascist era. Today, there are probably more speakers of Sicilian than any other Italic language except standard Italian

Sicilian Culture: The People

Bobby Darin

(Walter Robert Cassotto)

May 14, 1936 - December 20, 1973

A Bronx-born Italian went from the city streets, rags to riches to rags and back again. In his 20s, he became a teen idol after many failed attempts at becoming a popular singer. His first attempt was changing his name. Like they told so many people with ethnic names (not just Italians), he was told he could never success with a name like Cassotto. So while in New York City one day, he noticed a Chinese restaurant with the name Mandarin in the name. He liked it, and took the name of Darin in place of Cassotto. Bobby was married to Sandra Dee (another teen idol) with which they had one son, but ended in divorce.

Bobby Darin would never become the Sinatra he imagined, but Sinatra would also never have the variety of talents to the extent Bobby Darin had. In spite of anythin Darin ever said, Sinatra liked him, even joking "Bobby sings at all my proms for me". Often, Bobby Darin would perform with Sinatra in Vegas along with the rest of the Rat Pack.

La Cucina di Mamma

SICILIAN CHEESES

Formaggio

Purists, as well as the Italian Ministry of Health and the food labeling bureaucrats of the European Commission, will tell you that cheeses, by definition, are aged milk products. That excludes most ricotta (cottage cheese) and mozzarella, and perhaps even Greek feta, from the list. In other words, there's a difference between curd and cheese. This hardly seems the place to debate the matter, but we'll focus on "hard" (aged) cheeses made here in Sicily. Even without ricotta, the list is a substantial one. With exceptions like soy cheese (which resembles tofu), all traditional cheeses are made from some form of milk, whether it's from a cow, a sheep or a goat. What makes cheeses different, apart from the source of the milk (and even the variety of cow or goat), is the culture and aging process used in the cheese's manufacture. That's why ricotta differs from feta, though both are made from the milk of sheep or goats, and it's why English cheddar differs from Sicilian provola, both made from cow's milk. Even if the same method, culture and bovine species were used, Sicilian provola would still taste different from a hypothetical English variety because the livestock of both islands graze in different pastures, producing milk that tastes different. This all seems slightly arcane, but it's good to know something about cheesemaking when comparing different varieties of cheese.

Sicily's milk-producing livestock production consists of sheep, goats and cows, in that order. In practice, more Sicilian cheese is produced from cow's milk than from goat's milk, but there are more goats than cows in Sicily. Virgil and other classical writers mention the flourishing export market for Sicilian cheeses in Greece. Certain Sicilian cheeses made in ancient times are still made today, though others were introduced by the Arabs, Normans and Longobards during the Middle Ages. The Italian government has established rigid standards defining particular varieties of cheese, with mixed results. Prominent traditional successes are northern Italy's Parmesan and Gorgonzola, easily identified and protected. It is true that many traditional Sicilian cheeses are made from sheep's milk, but some of the better-known ones are made from cow's milk. Here are some of the better known Sicilian cheeses.

Pecorino, as its name implies, is made from sheep's milk ("pecora" meaning sheep). It is true that Sicily's sheep population is ever diminishing, but in Italian regions, only Sardinia presently raises more sheep than Sicily. Like Tuma, Pecorino is sometimes flavored with peppercorns or other spices. Made throughout Sicily, where it may be considered the most widely produced aged cheese product, it is a favourite for grating over pasta. Its taste, though sharp, is often less pungent and dry than that of Caciocavallo, despite a distinctive flavour and texture (it crumbles and flakes easily).

Caciocavallo is made from cow's milk, though its cryptic name literally means "horse cheese" --the Sicilian word "cacio" sharing the same root as casein while "cavallo" means horse. Nobody in Sicily has milked a mare lately, as far as I know. It takes at least eight months to age Caciocavallo properly, achieving a sharper flavour in about two years. Caciocavallo is a good complement to stronger wines, and widely used for grating over pasta. Indeed, it is a favourite of Sicilian chefs for use with pasta. It's usually shaped as a large wheel. "Caciovacchino" was a similar product made in times past.

Canestrato is made from whole cow's milk, sometimes diluted with that of goats or sheep. Its name derives from its aging in baskets (canestri). It is quite similar to Pecorino, made with the same process, and there is a theory that Canestrato was developed to obtain a similar product while using cow's milk. Pecorino (see above) is made from sheep's milk. Its form is usually cylindrical, weighing as much as thirty pounds (about fifteen kilograms). It is usually somewhat sweet until aged more than fourteen months. Sicilians prefer to consume Canestrato as a table cheese with wine, fruit or both.

Piacentinu, famous in the province of Enna in central Sicily, is made from sheep's milk and flavored with saffron, which gives it a deep yellowish hue. The name comes from the Sicilian word cognate to piacere ("to like").

Provola, which comes in regional Sicilian varieties (Nebrodi, Ragusa, Madonie), is made from whole cow's milk. There's also a tasty smoked form, and it's the classical complement to hams. It assumes a sharp flavour when aged. Made using a very old method, Provola is usually formed into a bulb, then suspended from a ribbon or string for aging. This gives it a pear shape, with each bulb weighing a kilogram or less. In general, the more mature the Provola, the deeper yellow its rind.

Tuma and Primo Sale are known, in some forms, as "Vastedda" in some parts of Sicily, such as the Belice Valley. Made from sheep's milk, it is usually called Tuma when tasted right out of the mould, Primo Sale when salted lightly, and Vastedda when aged slightly longer. Like Pecorino, Tuma is sometimes flavored with peppercorns or other spices. Unlike Pecorino, it does not age well and is best served with ham, wines and fruits as a table cheese. It has a sweet taste not unlike that of Provola, with an equally rubbery texture.

Maiorchino, the name possibly based on that of the island of Maiorca, was supposedly introduced by the Aragonese Spaniards. Made in the wooded Peloritan and Nebrodi mountains of northeastern Sicily, it contains roughly equal amounts of whole milk from native breeds of cow, sheep and goat.

Ragusano, made from cow's milk, has a mild flavour. It is made in the province of Ragusa in southeastern Sicily. A number of other regional Sicilian cheeses are made from goat's or sheep's milk. Several that should be mentioned are Capra (Messina), Fiore Sicano (Palermo), Cofanetto, Ericino and Caciotta degli Elimi (Trapani).

Ricotta Salata is an aged, salted Ricotta (cottage cheese whose Italian name literally means "re-cooked") made from sheep's milk, produced in the Sicilian heartland. Usually only the rind is actually salted heavily, leaving the core mild and quite sweet for an "aged" cheese.

Did you know?

Sicilian Culture

Sicilian Streghe & Strega

For those of you who came here looking for the liquor Strega that was mentioned in The Godfather Novel (forget it). For those of you who wish to learn about La Vecchia Religione (The Old Religion), you are in the right place.

Strega literally means witch in Italian, and is the practice of pagan rituals such as the occult and Wicca, better known as witchcraft. Strega is a female witch, Stregone is a male witch, collectively, they would be referred to as Streghe or Stregheria.

The are not to be mistaken with the cult such as satanism or anything remotely related. It does however, have the belief of ancient gods and goddesses.

Long before Christianity was made legal and dominated all of Italy and the world, Pre-Etruscan Italians had mysterious and magic practices and teachings which were further developed and refined by the Etruscans around 1000BC. The rise of the Roman Empire as well as other factors began to influence Italian religion. While all pagan religions were soon stomped out by the rise of Christianity, one of the most common remnants of this secret religion is the Trinacria which was put on Pagan temples in Sicily in an effort to scare off invading armies.

Those who find this odd, well, it is, but really isn't. When a relative is sick, we go and light a candle and say a special prayer to a designated saint. Not too much different? In fact, many may not realize it, but the days of the week, and even the months of the year, are all named after pagan Gods.

Days of the Week...

Sunday = named for the Sun (Domenico in Italian)
Monday = named for the Moon (Lunedi in Italian, from the word Luna which means moon)
Tuesday = named for Mars (Martedi in Italian)
Wednesday = Mercury (Mercoledi in Italian)
Thursday = Jupiter (Giovedi in Italian)
Friday = Venus (Venerdi in Italian)
Saturday = Saturn (Sabato in Italian)

And the Months of the Year...

January - From Latin Januarius, honoring Janus, a Roman God. Being first (and the first month of the year), he reined over the Gates of Heaven, which Christians later assigned to St. Peter.
February - From Februus, another name for the God of purification Faunus and fertility.
March - Named after Mars, the god of war because it is usually a stormy and windy month.
April - Is derived from the Latin word "to open", just like the blooming of the trees. The Romans dedicated this month to Venus, often referring to it as Mensis Veneris instead of Aprilis. It is said that geniuses are often born in April, and there is much documentation that Jesus was actually born in the Spring, not December. The Winter Solstice was renamed the birth of Christ in an effort to convert pagans and this pagan ritual over to Christianity.
May - Maia Majesta was the ancient Roman Goddess of Spring. She was considered to be Vulcan's wife.
June - The Roman Goddess Juno was Queen of Heaven and Guardian of Marriage and ruled childbirth. Even today, June is still a favorite month for marriages. We also get the term "honeymoon" from the month of June because it is only in this month that was see the orangish color of the full moon which resembles that of the color of honey.
July - While once called Quintilus, or the 5th month, it was renamed for Julius Caesar and given a full 31 days in his honor.
August - Not to be out-done by his famous Uncle Julius, Roman Emperor Augustus renamed what was once called Sixtilis (the 6th month) and also given a full 31 days.
September - Comes from the Latin number for 7 of the old calendar.
October - The root comes from the word octo, or the 8th month in the old calendar.
November - 9th month in old Roman calendar. It is also recognized as a month of harvest, from ancient times as well as that of modern America.
December - 10th month in the old calendar which also brought the winter solstice and the yule season.